Last year I knit my first pair of toe-up socks and became an immediate convert searching out toe-up patterns all over the web. Many of those patterns utilize a short row heel. However, I am a fan of the heel flap.
First, there I used Widdershuns and even modified it when designing Mom's Fixation. Then I tried Diamante's heel and fell in love...a true diamond!
So when it came time to knit Fawkes, it had to be toe-up with an adapted Diamante heel over fewer stitches. Below are the adapted instructions in case you too would prefer Toe-Up Fawkes.
Toe-Up Fawkes (60 st design with heel flap)
Toe- Cast on using favorite toe-up cast on. I prefer to Magic Cast On 20 stitches- 10 on each needle. Then work increases each round until there are 40 sts- 20 on each needle. Then alternate a knit round with an increase round until there are 60 sts- 30 on each needle.
Foot- Work the 60 stitches in pattern according to the original Fawkes design with instep according to the chart and the sole in stockinette.
Cont in patt until work measures approx. 3.5 inches less than desired length, ending with Round 4 or 10 of patt.
Gusset- Increase Round: Work in patt to end of Needle 1; k1,m1, work to last st of Needle 2, m1, k1. Work 1 round in patt as set without increase. Repeat the 2 rounds eleven time more. 84 sts; 30 sts on Needle 1, 54 sts on Needle 2. You should have finished these 2 rounds having just worked Round 4 or 10 of chart patt.
Heel-
Row 1: Work in pattern (rnd 5 or 11) on Needle 1; Needle 2 knit first 36 sts. Turn work.
Even numbered rows 2-12 (WS): Sl1, p17. Turn work.
Odd numbered rows 3-11 (RS): Sl1, k17. Turn work.
Row 13: Sl1, k15, w&t.
Row 14: Sl1, p13, w&t.
Row 15: Sl1, k11, w&t.
Row 16: Sl1, p9, w&t.
Row 17: Sl1, k7, w&t.
Row 18: Sl1, p5, w&t.
Row 19: Sl1, k11, pick up & k6 sts (1 st in each slipped stitch along edge of flap). Turn work.
Row 20 (WS): Sl1, p23, pick up & k6 sts (1 st in each slipped stitch along edge of flap). Turn work.
You will now have 66 sts on Needle 2: 30 heel flap sts, and 18 gusset sts on each side of the flap sts.
Row 21 (RS): (Sl1, k1) 14 times, sl1, ssk. Turn work.
Row 22 (WS): Sl1, p28, p2tog. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 21 & 22 sixteen more times until 32 sts remain on Needle 2. Work Row 21 once more, but do not turn work. Proceed to leg.
Leg: Needle 1 K all sts (Rnd 6 or 12). Needle 2 k2tog, k to end of needle. 60 sts total.
Continue Needle 1 in pattern and begin Needle 2 in pattern to match Needle 1. Work desired length until ready to knit cuff. Knit k1, p1 ribbing for cuff to desired length. Bind off.